Friday, August 8, 2008

Wherefore Art Thou Romesco?

Posted by Carrington Fox on Fri, Aug 8, 2008 at 7:21 AM

click to enlarge 1110_ro2.jpg

In this week's review of One Hundred West, I mentioned in passing a romesco sauce that accompanied the fried calamari and zucchini. When my dining companion asked our server to describe the romesco, she brushed the question off by saying, “It's just our version of marinara.”

She shouldn’t have been so coy. Romesco is cool and worth bragging about.

Like marinara, romesco is red. And in this case, it did arrive alongside calamari, a frequent hangout for marinara. But romesco is a Spanish-style sauce of nuts (typically hazelnuts or almonds) ground with garlic, olive oil and red peppers. Some recipes for romesco—including One Hundred West’s almond-based version—call for tomatoes, but the flavor is nuttier than marinara, and the texture is more along the lines of a pesto.

If memory serves, Red Wagon Cafe (may it rest in peace) used to serve a gorgeous variation on eggs Benedict with romesco on the English muffin. Olives Et Al., the British purveyor of olives from whom I swiped the above photo, promotes romesco as "the ideal thing for white fish or chicken, also a damn fine pasta sauce."

In our experience at One Hundred West, the romesco was a nice complement to the lightly fried squid and a welcome change from the ubiquitous marinara dip. Kudos to chefs Justin Byler and Jason Will for mixing things up a little bit. In fact, they might suggest to their servers that they brag about it a little more.

After all, if you’ve got it, you may as well flaunt it.

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Posted by claudia (cook eat FRET) on August 8, 2008 at 9:02 AM

She wasn't playing coy - she probably didn't know what it was.

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Posted by TobintheGnome on August 8, 2008 at 11:31 AM

Why, thank you Claudia!! It's like ketchup in our house!!!

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Posted by Mary Coleman on August 8, 2008 at 5:44 PM

Can anyone in Nashville point me towards proper Poutine in the city limits??? The Quebec/Acadian dish with fresh cheese curds/thick gravy/thick fries or some variation there of??? Cafe Coco has something they call Poutine... it is more Jersey fries and very heartbreaking. I'll buy a six pack for the person that points me in the proper direction. hoppesm AT gmail.com

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Posted by Stephen on August 12, 2008 at 8:09 PM

I haven't found anything like poutine in Nashville, but to be honest, I haven't been looking.
**TRAVEL SNOB ALERT!!!**
The last time I had poutine was at a movie-theater concession stand in Toronto. I'm a sucker for unusual concession-stand chow, but that was really not my bag--or rather, not my cup of greasy gravy-streaked goo. My guess is that it's a regional favorite that doesn't export well.
On the other hand, I strongly encourage somebody local to look into that other venerable Canadian staple, the peameal sandwich. Mmmm.

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Posted by mr. pink on August 12, 2008 at 11:26 PM

Just found out tonight that City Limits, Eats, and 100 West have been closed in defineatly. City Limits Clofton is still open.

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Posted by Chris Lorinovich on December 30, 2008 at 8:57 PM
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