Monday, June 23, 2008
Restaurants Chain, Chain, Chains
Posted by Jim Ridley on Mon, Jun 23, 2008 at 4:34 PM
Lately, some of our loyal readers have complained that Bites is starting to look like a graveyard, what with all the memorials to fallen restaurants in recent weeks. But where others see problems, we at Bites see opportunities--especially opportunities for new and varied forms of gluttony.
Of the many restaurants that have boarded up in recent months, some, such as Green Hills Grille or Beethoven's Grille in Cool Springs, sat in locations so choice, pricey and large that most likely only a chain would follow. So instead of sitting back and waiting for yet another Applebee's, we'd like to suggest some regional and national chains--among the single-digit few that haven't already invaded--that should take a chance on Middle Tennessee.
Would we prefer more chains? Oh, hell no. Would we rather some enterprising, talented local chef assumed one of these spaces and gave Nashville the bistro/charcuterie/world-class veggie cafe it deserves? Oh, hell yes. But damn, folks, if tomatoes won't kill you these days, the price of gas will. Who else is going to fill these empty spaces? Who else has the mad money? Who indeed: Chains.
With that in mind, we extend a muffin basket of welcome to these candidates for Middle Tennessee expansion, after the jump. Please weigh in with alternatives, thoughts, testimonials, blind searing hatred, etc.
What: You read the name, right?
Where based: Miami
Corporate Boilerplate Description: "A rapidly expanding franchise that features marinated grilled chicken, boneless pita 'pocket' chicken breast sandwiches, unique Chop Chop entrees, freshly prepared 'homemade' side dishes, and special proprietary sauces."
Translation: "Otter's goes global!"
Sample item: Cuban Chop-Chop ($6.29), chopped grilled chicken breast with lettuce, tomatoes and black beans served over white rice
Fun Fact: "Awarded a 'Kid's Crown Award' in South Florida Parenting Magazine as the Healthiest Fast Food."
What: Upscale Southwestern chow
Where based: Denver
CBD: "The design of our restaurants mirrors the idea behind our food: simple materials put together creatively, elevating them to a higher level."
Translation: "Please don't hate us because we're owned by McDonald's."
Sample item: Burrito--flour tortilla, cilantro-lime rice, choice of pinto or vegetarian black beans, meat, salsa, cheese or sour cream, and romaine lettuce
Fun Fact: Provides online hook-up to "avocado ripening cam."
What: Family restaurant with an outdoorsy gold-rush theme
Where based: Los Alamitos, Calif.
CBD: "Claim Jumper offers a selection of freshly prepared items using only the finest ingredients available. Favorites include USDA Prime and Choice steaks, fresh fish, rotisserie chicken, baby back pork ribs, fresh baked pot pies, specialty salads, wood-fired pizzas, pasta, sandwiches, burgers and more."
Translation: "Stoney River duels Tony Roma's for the love of California Pizza Kitchen in the rugged Yukon."
Sample item: Country-fried steak ($13.50 half-portion): "A Hearty Portion of Lean Cube Steak Breaded in a Traditional Country Seasoning. Fried Golden Brown and Topped with CJ's Creamy Sausage Gravy. Served with our Giant Buttermilk Biscuit and Red Skin Mashed Potatoes."
You Know It's Classy Because: The Las Vegas location is designed along the theme "Arts and Crafts."
What: Flame-grilled Mexican chicken
Where based: Costa Mesa, Calif.
CBD: "Citrus-marinated chicken flame-grilled right before your eyes."
Translation: "KFC, only F the KF."
Sample item: The Original Pollo Bowl, chicken breast, pinto beans, rice, cilantro, onion and pico de gallo
Fun Fact: "Pronounced 'L-Po-yo Lo-co' and Spanish for 'The Crazy Chicken.' "
What: Classic SoCal burger mill
Where based: Baldwin Park, Calif.
CBD: "The menu--burgers, fries and drinks--is still the same basic menu customers have enjoyed since 1948. There are no microwaves or freezers. Customers may observe french fries being made from hand-diced, fresh, whole potatoes. And the shakes are made from real ice cream."
Translation: "Carrington's dream come true: Five Guys with shakes!"
Sample item: The 4 x 4, four pure-beef patties stacked with "hand-leafed lettuce," four slices of American cheese, etc.
Fun Fact: Shhh! Don't tell about the "Not-So-Secret Menu," which includes down-low modifications like "cooked with mustard."
What: French bakery and bistro
Where based: Dallas
CBD: "Step out of the world and into la Madeleine, where you can enjoy the simple pleasures of French country life: fresh, flavorful food, welcoming people and good conversation."
Translation: "We even import the customers!"
Sample item: Beef Crepe Maison, "shaved roast beef sautéed with broccoli, onions, roasted potatoes and mushrooms tossed in a creamy cheddar cheese sauce, served with green beans almondine"
You Know It's Classy Because: They spell "soup" with an "e." Also, the name is French for "the Madeleine."
What: High-end Japanese cuisine
Where based: New York
CBD: "Nobu draws upon his classical training at sushi bars in Tokyo and his life abroad in Peru, Argentina, and around the world to create a whole new trend in Japanese cuisine."
Translation: "Oh, you mean like P.F. Chang?"
Sample item: Broiled black cod with miso ($24)
You Know It's Classy Because: The website makes special note of the architect.
What: Frozen-yogurt fairyland
Where based: Los Angeles
CBD: "It's frozen yogurt reinvented to create an experience that indulges the senses."
Translation: "It's TCBY with an account at IKEA."
Sample item: Pinkberry Green Tea, "soft swirls of chilly bliss with a distinct pouty peak"
Fun Fact: Offers as toppings both Cocoa and Fruity Pebbles.
What: Family-style casual dining restaurant
Where based: Valencia, Calif.
CBD: "With our open kitchen and mesquite fired grill, we are a high energy, fun restaurant with emphasis on delicious food and fast, efficient service."
Translation: "We turn over tables faster than Tom Sizemore."
Sample item: Tri-Tip Roast ($21.99)
You Know It's Classy Because: The categories on the website burst into flame with an audible poof! when you click them.
What: Cool superstore best known for hoagies, coffee and gas
Where based: Wawa, Penn.
CBD: "Wawa offers a large fresh food selection, including Wawa brands like Built-to-Order® Hoagies which come in four sizes: the Junior, Shorti, Classic, and Two-Footer."
Translation: "Come to the dark side, Jared."
Sample item: Meatball hoagie with melted cheese, thanks to "state-of-the-art toasting equipment"
Fun Fact: " 'Wawa' is a Native American word for the Canada Goose that was found in the Delaware Valley, that's why we use the goose on Wawa's corporate logo."
Comments (54)
Showing 1-50 of 54
Having eaten at Nobu (mercifully, Viacom picked the tab for that one), In-N-Out and and L-Po-yo Lo-Ko, I'D vote for Pollo Loco. Citrus-marinated flame-broiled chiken, plus lo-riders on the parking lot. Eat that, Sonic!
Stonefire? What do they cook with? Lava?
Claim Jumper? Wasn't that the celeb eatery owned by the wrinkly mulleted Bountry Hunter?
Or was it Bail Jumper?
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Love to hear more about Nobu, EZ. You're saying it wasn't all that and a bag of shrimp chips?
Going by the combustible category headings, I'd say Stonefire cooks with the CONCENTRATED HEAT OF 1,000 FIRES!!!
If you and Dog can put together a prospectus for Bail Jumper, I think glory awaits in Antioch. Especially if you can hire probation officers as servers. I'm thinking orange stripes for the decor....
Well, now that we have Five Guys, my In-N-Out cravings have vanished, especially since the latter prints little tiny Bible verses on their packaging and I get quite enough Bible in my everyday Nashville life, thanksverymuch.
I'll pass on Chipotle as well, though go ahead and book my table for Nobu.
El Pollo Loco rocks. That would be my first choice. Second, oddly enough, is at the other end of the spectrum: Nobu, which, though it may be trendy and overpriced, is still exceptionally good. And the black miso cod is to die for.
I hate to say it, but Chipolte is one of the better chains around. I know, I know -- it started with McDonalds, but they put out quality food using sustainable meats etc. Although I consider myself a food snob, I adore Chipolte.
I'll put in a vote for L & L Hawaiian Barbecue.
What: Uh, Hawaiian barbecue.
Where based: Honolulu
CBD: "L&L Hawaiian Barbecue's unique meal composition and signature brand of Asian and American fusion cuisine has helped it to stand out from the others that offer Hawaiian style cuisine."
Translation: It's Hawaiian fast-food, based on ye olde Hawaiian plate lunch, itself an amalgam of traditional Hawaiian, Japanese and mainland influences.
Sample item: Plate lunch with rice (two servings), macaroni salad and some kind of meat—ribs that are basically like Korean kalbi, but less strongly seasoned, or my favorite, curry katsu.
Fun fact: "The owners attribute their success to a decentralized system of ownership through franchises in which each restaurant is a separately incorporated profit center run by partners in the corporation or individual owners. Their success is furthermore enhanced by immersing customers with the Aloha spirit through their brightly colored interiors with scenic views of Hawaii and warm hospitality."
Wow, Mimi, if you and Claudia give Chipotle a vote of confidence, that's good enough for me. I see them making a fortune in the Green Hills Grille location—or better still, in the retail space on the ground floor of Velocity or one of these other condo developments in Little Dubai...I mean, the Gulch.
Mimi, are there any decent chains in Chicago?
Noodles is okay. www.noodles.com It's probably actually better than okay, but I had my hopes for an Asian type stir fry noodle joint (like Hi Rickys used to be in Chi) and it is not that. It does decent stuff with pasta though for fast food.
Chipoltes encourages you to email them with viable real estate spaces -- I have done it before as I want one somewhere in Nashville! (I think the GHG space is too big for them though.)
I was never that crazy about Hi Ricky, but I also didn't go there that often. What's the name of the pan-Asian chain all over the North side? The name escapes me....
Big Asian chain on the N side??? I'm not sure, chain wise.
Big Bowl downtown might qualify and I think it's decent, decent plus. I'd welcome it in Nashville.
Now this will sound crazy, but the Weber Grill Restaurant always looks enticing and I have heard it's good - I'm just waiting for the right guests with kids to check that one out. Mr. Pink?
http://www.webergrillrestaurant.com/index.html
I'd like to put Buffalo Wild Wings (formerly BW3) into the Green Hills Grille space. All the "wings" places in Nashville are small, and there are currently no chain bar-and-grille style restaurants in the area. Although, honestly, I just want a decent place with National Trivia Network games and a lots of sports viewing options.
Mimi: Not a big chain, but with several locations around the North side. Kind of Thai-centric menu. It's just someone's name, I think.
Steve, I think Penny's Noodle Shop is the place you are referring to. (Diversey near the El, Sheffield near the El and also on on Damen.)
Would also love to see something like Joy's Noodles & Rice/Oodles of Noodles (2 noodle shops by the same owner)!
You know, when I lived in Memphis, there was this nice, casual restaurant called The Cooker over in East Memphis...
I keed, I keed. Actually, if Memphis Pizza Cafe could open up a Nashville location in my part of town, I'd be there once a week. That'd be awesome.
And I would secretly go to In-N-Out for the shakes and fries. But Bobbie's takes care of that craving just fine.
I miss The Cooker too, although the food quality had really plummeted by the time it closed.
Another chain I forgot to add, courtesy of Lee Stabert: the late, lamented Houston's.
Also, the Hawaiian barbecue place sounds awesome. Please tell me they serve drinks in pineapples.
Mimi: For some reason I was thinking Chipotle wanted a fairly large space (especially signage space up front). Though not as big as Wawa (another Lee Stabert tip), which practically needs the acreage of a Costco.
Hey, Lee, what's the big deal with Pinkberry? Have you actually tried it, or is it just the idea that's appealing?
Penny's, that's it. Penny's. All I could come up with was Andy's, but that was my favorite Middle Eastern restaurant (in Andersonville) until they moved into the larger space.
Pink: I used to go to L & L probably twice a week when I lived in Seattle (it was right near where I worked). It's not great, but I miss it just the same. Just like I miss having cheap teriyaki all over the place, and...well, let's just stop there.
The Chipolte website indicates most of their stores are between 1000 & 2800 square feet. I'm thinking the GHG site is much, much bigger. http://www.chipotle.com/#flash/development
LOVE the Homemade Pizza Co in Chicago. It's "take & bake" with high end ingredients (think applewood smoked bacon, smoked gouda etc.). Anyway, they put it on parchment paper & it turns out fantastic! http://www.homemadepizza.com/ I think people would go for it here although I think they are regional at this point.
I&O is good, but Culver's is better.
http://www.culvers.com/
mmmm Butterburgers & frozen custard.
Mr. Rosa:
Nobu NYC wasn't as wow as other Sushi restaurants I've been to (the decor wasn't as ascetic as I've liked) but it does have its own spin on sushi + tempura. Didn't have the cod-thing, and although the lobster was good, in this one place in Beverly Hills they fish it out of the tank for you, and go all medieval on it.
I'll get on the horn with Chapman, IF you agree to be our Sommelier. "Sir, rather than a Bud, I'd recommend PRB with your Grilled Hickory-Cheddar Loaded Potato Skins. The extra barley in the PBR compliments the Bacos quite nicely"
There is a Buffalo Wild Wings in Smyrna...go figure.
El Pollo Loco would be great as would Claim Jumper (warning to foodies, they serve HUGE portions, make Cheesecake Factory look like dim sum) but have fresh ingredients and focus on local purveyors.
No In and Out Burger here please. It's fine to have some things stay where they start.
Portillo's Hot Dogs and their super "juicy" Italian Beef would be a welcome addition...if Cali can get this Chicago favorite, we deserve it too :)
I thought about adding Portillo's to the list. But then I had a brat and an Italian beef sandwich at Hot Diggity Dog last week, and I thought: who needs 'em?
Potbellys. Potbellys. Come to Nashville Potbellys.
Ahh Chicago. Love spending my summer in Chicago...
A placed called Skewerz just opened up here and is getting lots of favorable press, despite the horrible spelling.(http://www.timeout.com/chicago/articles/restaurants-bars/32331/skewerz). It's billed as healthy stave-off-the-hangover food; go for a tofu and veggie kebab with mango chili sauce rather than a chili cheese dog after a late night in Wicker Park.
I also wish Nashville had a place like the Spice House in Chicago. I'm like a kid in a candy store when I go in there. I always leave with something, regardless of whether I need it (what should I do with Za'atar - ground sumac and sesame seeds?). I love that they grind their own spices in the basement. I never knew what cinnamon was supposed to taste like until I bought IT from the Spice House. And the prices are quite reasonable.
Grew up on the in-n-out urge (we used to cut the 'b' and the 'r's off the bumper stickers, get it?).
5 Guys has done well to fill that void for me. Bravo them.
Somebody mentioned teriyaki a few posts ago. Can anyone tell me whether that place in Cool Springs called I Love Teriyaki is any good? I think that's the name of it.
Be careful what we ask for people. The desire for novel chain restaurants in Green Hills got us the hyper-mega-giga-caloric monstrosity that is The Cheesecake Factory. If we're not vigilant, somebody will put in a Marie Callendar's and we'll have to widen the freakin' seats at the Green Hills 16 to accommodate the collective bootification of the neighborhood.
What ever happened to the rumors of a Picolo’s Restaurant & The Red Bar outpost coming to town? Screw the Gulch! Put it somewhere that could actually use a soul injection.
Well, while we're at it, let's bring Gold Coast Dog, Mr. Beef, Lalo's, Beefee, Home Run Inn, Pizzeria Uno/Due, Giordano's & The Golden Nugget here, too. I kid. Sorta.
Heather: You can also get a real Chi-Town Italian beef at the aptly named Chicago Style Italian Beef, down Nolensville way. Anybody heard any more on that Italian beef joint that's supposedly opening on Elliston?
I second the Chicago Style Italian Beef sammy. Although I'd love to see someone open a Nashville outpost of Mr. Beef.
Ooooh, yes to Portillo's! Wait....HDD has Italian Beef? Sheesh - where are my keys??
In-N-Out Burger will never happen here, unless they cave in and start franchising. But then if they did that, it would probably not be as good anyway, right?
I agree that a Culver's would be nice. There is one is Bowling Green, and I confess that a couple of times I have driven up there for a Butterburger and some frozen custard. It's really good...not In-N-Out good, but still really good.
To the person who mentioned BW3, there is also one in Rivergate, but I too wish there was one closer to the city.
And it's only a matter of time before a Chipotle opens here. I'd put the over/under at 18 months.
The Homemade Pizza Company sounds great. I even like Papa Murphy's, which offers take-and-bake pizzas as well as cookie dough. There's one in Murfreesboro, but I haven't seen one in Nashville yet.
Taco Cabana, Double Dave's and Whataburger. Especially the Taco Cabana. Still can't figure out why there is not a single breakfast taco place here in town with all of the transplanted Texans around. VY could be the spokesman!
Sure wish we could get some kind of decent Chinese chain here, since it seems we'll never get the real thing. Bummer.
There is a Papa Murphy's in Bellevue.
Taco Cabana is great. Or at least it has always been great when I've been there (it's been about four years). I hear the quality has declined in recent years.
On a related note, I have heard that Nashville's SATCo was started one of the original founders of Taco Cabana? Anybody know if that's true?
China Girl, I was having the same thought. I can get a burger anywhere, but decent chain Chinese is seriously lacking. I was thinking Mr Chow -- the one in London is really good -- but it's not really a chain, just a multi-location eater.
How about a Wolfgang Puck located where Nashvillians, and not just CoolSpringians (springerei?), could enjoy it?
For a chain, La madeleine is pretty good, and would at least give us a hint of French cuisine here.
Lawry's Prime Rib. I drool just thinking about it. Yorkshire pudding, end cut sliced at my table, spinning salad, creamed spinach. OMG. Yes, Please. PLEASE!!! Lawyry's Prime Rib. Yes, the seasoned salt people. How good is the prime rib? So good it's why the seasoned salt ever existed, it is their RUB, originally developed just for the prime ribs. How amazing can something be when your RUB becomes an industry unto itself??
I'll also second Weber's Grille. Eat there every time I'm in Chicago. It's exactly what every steak-based restaurant ought to be. the food is perfection, the ideas are noteworthy for your own patio efforts and you can sit at the counter and watch it all happen. There is nothing better. Unless someone has invited you to Lawry's up the block and is picking up the tab.
I'll add Vong's Thai Kitchen to the wish list. hardly a chain, not even a multiple-location entity. but man, what a place to eat. and yes, if you're on a map, it's just a block over from Weber's Grille, which is a block down from Lawry's. Did I mention how I select hotel locations when I'm in Chicago...?
veto EPL. Any good mexican joint can grill chicken marinated in citrus, only a Denny's owned establishment can charge two times the market rate for it.
also veto Claimjumper. Do you remember Stuart Anderson's Black Angus? well, that level of okay is something Claimjumper never achieved. and without the cool booths, it's boring inside to boot.
Peppermill. Like the originals in Sacramento, not the ridiculous casino versions in Vegas. Great food, hilarious portions and prices, but a fun way to watch nouveau riche over-spend on a club sandwich.
Coco's. Best hamburger joint ever created. ever.
last, some place, any place that makes an honest-to-god Chicken Fried Steak. not country-fried, CHICKEN fried. Like Cupp's in Waco, or any place in Texas, for that matter. Round steak, beaten senseless, dredged, dipped, dropped in the fryer, placed under honest to god chicken gravy.
Please forgive my ignorance, but what exactly is the difference between a "chicken fried steak" and a "country fried steak"? The preparation that you describe sounds identical to how I've always made "country fried steak".
did you pan fry or deep fry? if pan, it's country. if deep, it's chicken, so just call it by its correct name! :)
One of my favorites in Chicago was Wildfire (part of the Lettuce Entertain You chain). Great atmosphere and wonderful food. They also own Cafe Ba-ba-reeba, Vong's, Big Bowl, Ben Pao (really good chinese) and Shaw's Crab House. I'm pretty sure they started Maggiano's as well. For a chain, they have unique concepts that are executed really well in my opinion. Penny's Noodles and Giordano's were favorites when I lived in Chicago... Penny's was so cheap and you could bring in your own wine. I also loved all the great tapas places to choose from. I would love for Nashville to get a great tapas place.
Mrs. Pink and I took my parents to a great tapas place when we were in Chicago. I want to say it was called Cafe Iberico. Too loud and too crowded...but I could see why the place was popular. Awesome sangria.
Hey, Nashville: what about a sangria bar?
Ultra posh 21 and over cigar bar for all the cigar afficianadoes in town that don't have anywhere to go smoke. Gognacs, wine, port etc. leather club chairs decorated like an old british mens club.
can't believe in my umpteen-million word count I forgot the obvious -
Houston's, anyone?
with "avocado ripening cam" as a draw, why are there discussions still? some odd quest for substance, perhaps, or a faint desire for other options - just so long as it's not for cool springerlies or gulchers.
Anything from the Lettuce Entertain You Chain, especially Cafe Ba-ba-Reba or L. Woods.
Or Rosa Mexicana--upscale Mexican now in NY, DC,FL and Atlanta.
Pink:
Sangria?? What's next, an irony-free wine coolers bar?
By Jove, are there THAT many awesome restaurant chains? How about supporting a place where the chefs actually cook from scratch?
EZ, I said up front an original local restaurant was preferable to a chain. But nobody's gonna do that with a space like Beethoven's Grille in Cool Springs. If we're gonna be made to eat soap anyway, I'm at least going to suggest the most palatable brands.
Oh, and if we're wishing for a visit from the sugarplum fairies at Lettuce Entertain You, I'll take a Brasserie Jo, please.
