Sunday, September 30, 2007

High Marks and Big Fish

Posted By on Sun, Sep 30, 2007 at 10:55 AM

Gourmet magazine unveiled its annual restaurant issue this week, with a focus on the farm-to-fork efforts of restaurants showcasing local products. Among the highlights, Watermark made the list entitled "Meat Rules:"

The bread basket here is, in a gambler's parlance, the tell. At this swank skyline-view restaurant in Nashville's rapidly gentrifying Gulch neighborhood, chef Sean Norton and his crew bake angel biscuits and corn sticks; the latter are perfect for sopping up the black-eyed-pea broth that naps a dish of braised rabbit. Or the braised pork belly with chowchow, which, by the way, pairs beautifully with a glass of Riesling. 507 12th Ave. S., Nashville (615-254-2000)

Also in the issue, Roadfoodies Jane and Michael Stern chronicle a recent stay in Nashville during which they surveyed our local hot fish and hot chicken. With shout-outs to King Fish, Bolton's Spicy Chicken & Fish and, of course, Prince's Hot Chicken Shack, the Sterns heaped praise upon the already-heaping sandwich at Eastside Fish. Proprietor Donald "Bo" Boatright, the self-proclaimed King of Fish, couldn't have asked for better ink. Page 56 of Gourmet leads off: "Nashville's crunkest hot-fish sandwich is also its biggest. The Giant King, signature dish at Eastside Fish, is a pair of whiting fillets, each at least a half pound, dredged in seasoned cornmeal and fried crisp, then sandwiched between double slices of soft supermarket white bread."

But we could have told you that.

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