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Nashville, Tennessee

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Fall Fashion
September 15, 2005


Ritual Adornment
Fall fashions turn beaded, lavish and lovely

<em>Photo: Eric England</em>
Photo: Eric England

At the fall 2005 fashion previews, gaunt, otherworldly beauties trotted down the runways in jet-black, silhouettes sculpted, waists dramatically cinched. They wore lace and velvet, Edwardian ruffles and flowy skirts in romantic, draping fabrics. Where pant legs once flared, they now slenderized with the drainpipe pant—a frightening proposition for anyone over 105 pounds. It might have been a rather bleak spectacle—another haute-couture lovely-to-look-at-but-show-me-something-I’ll-really-wear wrap-up if it weren’t for one tiny detail: the dramatic embellishments. This season, be it beaded, studded, embroidered or stoned—from head to toe, fashion is drenched in earthy, feminine frippery.

<em>Photo: Eric England</em>
Photo: Eric England

You can already see it creeping into boutiques around town. Beaded fashion debuted in the last year or so, when suddenly everywhere you looked, it seemed footwear, camisoles and jeans were decorated with shimmery aplomb. But this fall, the trend has been revamped. Dena Nance, O’More School of Design instructor and proprietor of What’s In Store, says the trend has experienced something of a merging.  “There are really two sides to the beaded fashion trend,” Nance explains from her downtown Franklin boutique. “There’s the more glam aspect of beaded fashion, which is what we saw when it first gained in popularity. More sequins, crystals and glitter. Then you’ve got the naturals—semi-precious stones like tiger’s eye, turquoise or carnelian on denim and handbags. What we’re seeing now is a merging of the two—the sort of high glam and naturals combined.”

Michael R Dan jeans
Michael R Dan jeans

Nance holds up a pair of vintage-washed Michael R Dan jeans as proof, hand painted and splashed with Swarovski crystals and coral-colored stones. She brought them back from Hong Kong on one of her many trend-watching trips abroad. It’s how Nance, whose wares occupy CMA gift bags as well as the ears, arms and necklines of many prominent country artists, stays ahead of trends in jewelry (her shop’s specialty) and other items for upcoming seasons. But R Dan jeans don’t retail in the U.S., so it’s surprising to see something so cutting-edge right here in Franklin. “Four years ago, trends were hitting a year later here than in New York or Los Angeles,” Nance explains. “But we’ve started catching up. Consumers are savvier now about what’s in style around the country and around the world.”

Elsewhere around the store you’ll find handbags, some clothing, footwear and jewelry. There are large, oddly shaped Kukui beads, thought to be an aphrodisiac in their native Polynesia, where they are plucked from the Kukui tree. (Kukui means seed, but the necklaces actually make use of the shell.) There are necklaces dotted with tribal beads, Bohemian- and ethnic-inspired, that incorporate crystal, agate, wood and bone, and often combine metallic elements like copper or brass. Some are elaborate pendants, some are draped and layered with antique brooches. All complement the regal color schemes in vogue this fall: the golds, purples, burgundies and rich hues that replicate the jewel tones. Handbags are metallic and studded; a row of pointy Indian flats features intricate crystals and beading.

Embroidery is a prominent flourish this season as well, and shops like Posh and Bamboo have already dutifully ushered in earthy must-haves like jeans, jackets and skirts featuring delicate, handmade embroidery. No two items are exactly alike. Some jeans host elaborate flowers and butterflies, while skirts bear whimsical patterns surrounded by sequin-lined stitches.  

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<em>Photo: Eric England</em>
Photo: Eric England

But for those who can’t afford top designer items, DIY options abound for anyone adventurous enough to dare. At the Beaded Bungalow in Berry Hill, you can find everything imaginable to craft your own beaded fashion. Owned by husband-and-wife team Phil and Victoria Lovett, the quirky boutique offers one-stop shopping for the bead enthusiast. Not only can you purchase a mind-boggling array of beads here—everything from lampwork beads (glass beads handcrafted by local artisans) to freshwater pearls to Tibetan beads to cabochons in every color, shape and size imaginable—but the shop also offers some 30 different instructional classes and stocks the necessary tools and findings (clasps, toggles and connectors) to make your own accessories. Beginners can learn basic jewelry assembly, while the more advanced can learn wire wrapping, crocheted rope lariat, or something called the Tin Cup—a knotted necklace technique worn by Rene Russo’s character in the golf movie Tin Cup.

What may be most fascinating, though, is Lovett’s stunning knowledge of the history of the bead trade and the store’s collection of authentic trade beads from Europe and Africa. If you catch Lovett in the shop, he will enthusiastically explain the history of almost any bead on hand, from their use as currency and tribal designations to the crafting techniques and materials used by various tribes. “When my wife and I first started this business,” Lovett says, “I thought, beads? I didn’t care anything about them. But once I started learning the history of them, I got hooked.”

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