Setting a New Standard

From the entrées, we particularly enjoyed the grilled Florida grouper served with a regional spin on a brandade—in which Shaw infused the traditional Provençal puree of salt cod and potatoes with the Southern staple Vidalia onion—and a peppery arugula salad.

Our one regret is that we did not order the brown bag chicken, a dish whose unassuming title undersells its dramatic presentation. A server plates the meal tableside, piercing the bag in which the chicken is roasted to release a fragrant steam of bird, fava beans and black truffles. The sole disappointment in our meal was the lamb loin with a mint-infused demi-glace and horseradish mashed potatoes. While the meat was beautifully cooked, the fresh English peas were withered and hard—not the ebullient green drops of spring that we expected.

After a discouraging encounter with institutional desserts on our first visit, we were delighted to conclude the meal with homemade pecan pie, peach cobbler and vanilla ice cream—the frozen dessert equivalent to homemade mayonnaise—made by Sydney Garrett-Hayes of The Sydney Trading Company.

While parts of our meal at The Standard were nothing short of splendid, the overall dinner experience lacked an air of festivity. In the august rooms appointed with subdued colors and grandmotherly china, we felt like we should whisper. Compounding that primness was the lack of a cocktail menu, which made us feel like lushes in a temperance house. There is an ample wine list, but the centerpiece of limes made us salivate for a gimlet that was not to be had. It appears that Shaw is trying to jazz up the place, while working within the aesthetic—and ascetic—limits. While neither the interior design nor the booze policy is likely to change anytime soon, The Standard is making an overture toward happy hour with a series of wine tastings on Thursday evenings this summer. For just $5, guests will taste a selection of wines paired with Shaw’s appetizers. The event could be one of the best food-and-drink bargains in town, and if it can draw some bustling nightlife into The Standard, it will be a good deal for everyone involved.

The Standard serves lunch Monday through Friday and dinner Tuesday through Saturday.

Access Nashville rates The Standard as having limited access (its lowest rating) for people in wheelchairs.