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Goodies for Foodies

Gift ideas for the epicure on your list

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Kay WEst

Published on December 16, 2004

When I am asked—and that's not nearly often enough—what I want for Christmas, or my birthday, I usually fumble for an answer. What I really want can't be bought or put in a box: more time, more sleep, more help, less stress, less discord, healthy and happy children, peace on Earth, goodwill to all men and women.

Still, if someone were to insist that I submit a list of things I wouldn't mind finding under my Christmas tree or in my stocking, I can turn Material Girl. Limiting myself to gifts that relate to food, drink or entertaining, I've managed to come up with a few suggestions that might also prove helpful to last-minute shoppers who have an epicure on their own list.

Beverly Bartsch looks perfectly sane, but what kind of crazy woman would open a brand-new shop specializing in glass and tableware smack-dab in the middle of a construction zone? "Well, it's been challenging," the slim blonde says with a smile. "But people are finding their way to the door, even if they have to walk across rubble to get here."

Thankfully, the rubble is so far confined to the torn-up streets and sidewalks of the commercial strip of 12th Avenue South between Halcyon and Linden, in the 12 South neighborhood. The city is spending a tidy sum to upgrade the area, to make it more attractive and accessible—eventually—to residents and visitors. The sidewalks are now nearing completion, and all that will be left to do is repave the bumpy road. In the meanwhile, those who do manage to beat a path to the door of Sadie b., the shop Bartsch named for her grandmother, are rewarded with several rooms full of beautiful and unique tabletop items and gifts.

Though I admit I am not a big fan of Nigella Lawson (OK, I'm jealous), her gorgeously simple yet elegant bowls, platters and other items caught my fancy. Bartsch carries other distinctive lines, including Jonathan Adler and Tracy Porter, whose hand-painted service ware includes soup tureens, pitchers and cake stands.

Bartsch also points out a table full of mix-and-match dinnerware in eye-catching solid colors like raspberry, lime, aqua and orange. Luminarc is priced for everyday use—dinner plates are $6, bowls, salad and dessert plates just $5 apiece. And, she says, it is virtually indestructible. She should know. 2309 12th Ave. S., 297-3800, www.shopsadieb.com.

♦ By press time, the sidewalks in 12 South should be completed, so a stroll south will lead to the relocated 12 South Mercantile. Proprietress Theresa Lauzon carries a terrific selection of vintage tablecloths and linens in excellent condition, as well as some unusual barware and service pieces right out of Grandma's sideboard. 2511 12th Ave. S., 297-3339.

Williams-Sonoma stocks an affordable and large selection of contemporary dining room and kitchen linens with an old-world look. But I found myself drawn to the Tulip Collection—beautiful wooden bowls, chip and dip sets, a baguette holder, and a fabulous lazy Susan for the center of the table. The Mall at Green Hills and CoolSprings Galleria.

♦ The retail area of Viking Culinary Arts Center in The Factory at Franklin is small, but the quality of its inventory is exceptional. From the most humble rubber spatula to the most coveted knives of the trade, I simply can't help myself from picking up and fondling every single item. The majority of the space in the store is devoted, however, to instruction, either hands-on in the Viking-equipped kitchen, or in the cooking theater at the rear. Viking offers a tremendous, year-round curriculum of cooking classes and demonstrations for kitchen novices or accomplished home chefs. The "Culinary Basics" classes make a great gift if you are not sure where on the spectrum your giftee falls, as everyone can use an introduction to, or a brush-up on, the basics. The hands-on workshops are limited to 12 students, and participants must be 17 years of age or older. All students receive a Viking apron, canvas tote or kitchen towel with the class, and "Three-Day Culinary Basics" students get their very own chef jacket with the Viking logo. For a complete list of classes, go to www.vikingculinary.com and click on the Franklin location.

♦ If that special someone has really been nice—or naughty—reward him or her with a luxe stay at Blackberry Farm in East Tennessee. "America's No. 1 Small Hotel" (as rated by Zagat) is a world-class culinary and wine travel destination, and its annual Food and Wine events are renowned for gathering some of the world's finest chefs, vintners, importers and culinary professionals. Proprietor Sam Beall and executive chef John Fleer have put together a baker's-dozen roster of classes, wine events and culinary celebrations. For a complete schedule and costs, log on to www.blackberryfarm.com.

♦ If your taste—and budget—leans more toward country ham than caviar, or you want to send a taste of home to displaced Southerners, fatten up friends near and far with hams, jams and much more from the legendary and totally rejuvenated Loveless Café. Order from www.hamsandjams.com by Dec. 22 to assure Christmas delivery.

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